Monday, May 21, 2012

Why Korea? Why EPIK?

Consider this potentially messy scenario: You have a college degree, massive student loans, no appealing job prospects, and a voice in your head that refuses to let you settle down until you've explored the world. It's a situation that could lead to months spent relying on the generosity of family members for housing, substitute teaching at a juvenile detention center for adolescent males, and tediously folding sweaters at Calvin Klein for eight hours a day, four days a week. Sometimes you babysit to fill the extra time, but mostly you wonder why you failed to put a little more effort into regular job applications.

um... it all worked out, okay?!

In January 2011, a Korean friend introduced me to the idea of teaching English in her home country, and I subsequently spent a couple of weeks considering it. The idea was put on hold, however, as I plunged into the chaos of student teaching, acknowledging my love for teaching art in the States, and half-seriously applying to 20 or so art teaching positions throughout the U.S. After my gleaming resume landed me two interviews and little else, Korea became my singular point of focus. I wanted to go, and I wanted to go immediately.

Earlier research taught me that hagwons (private, after school academies) allow foreign teachers to arrive in Korea at any time. The English Program in Korea, or "EPIK", which is sponsored by the Korean Ministry of Education, accepts teachers into the country twice a year: in February and August. Feeling certain that I couldn't wait that long to leave, I feverishly applied to a hagwon teacher recruiting company that abruptly vanished in mid October. It was weird and upsetting, and I realized that the safest option for employment rested with EPIK (see my later note about hagwons).

Today, I sit at my desk, listening to a sweetly accented rendition of "DO, A DEER, A FEMALE DEER/ RE, A DROP OF GOLDEN SUUUUN!" ringing down the hallway, and I'm exquisitely happy. To avoid excessive frivolity in my descriptions, I'll switch to a more useful numbered format titled:


Why I ADORE Working for EPIK

(Please note: This is not a Jumping Photo.
It's a Hovering Slightly Above the Ground Photo, a natural result of the EPIK experience)


Point of Adoration #1: I don't have to think.
Kind of. The challenges and opportunities in Gwangju that have set my brain on fire are of the life fulfillment variety, and not the basic needs kind. During every single step of the application process, orientation week, and the period of settling into Gwangju, I felt fully prepared and supported by the EPIK staff. The transition from curious traveler to established English teacher occurred with such relative ease that I still feel a little startled when I look back on it.

Allow me to clarify for a moment: the job is challenging. I work full time with five Korean co-teachers, and I teach every student in the school once a week (that's 22 classes with roughly 40 kids in each class). I've felt so grateful to have consistent clarity in regard to challenges like paying bills, setting up a bank account and cell phone plan, and finding a doctor when needed. Learning how to teach English well requires my full attention. The EPIK staff makes it possible to do so by removing the complicated guesswork that comes with settling in a new country.


Point of Adoration #2: I live here for FREEEE!
Really close to true. Most all teaching positions in Korea come with a free apartment, through EPIK or otherwise. My flight was also reimbursed, I'll receive money at the end of the year for a flight home (or a bonus if I resign my contract), medical expenses are teensie (think: roughly $4 for a visit to the doctor and a prescription once you've received your Alien Residency Card), and I make enough money to pay off loans at home while also traveling and saving money.

Added bonus:the cost of living is low and public transportation in Korea is GREAT. I can make it to Seoul or Busan (the two largest cities) for less than $50, round trip. Amazing.


Point of Adoration #3: Friends are also included in the EPIK contract.
(Unofficially very true, though it's perhaps your choice to dismiss them.)
After deciding to apply, the potential for loneliness became a top concern. The reality? My social calendar is so full I can barely think straight. During the week-long arrival orientation, hundreds of incoming EPIK teachers gather in one place to prepare for the year ahead and to bond, tightly. In my case, I met over 50 teachers from the U.S., Canada, South Africa, Australia, the U.K., and Ireland, all headed to Gwangju.

Nearly three months into the experience, we continue to travel herd-style and refer to ourselves as "The Family". Yes, it's cult-ish and slightly ethnocentric, but I like to think we drive each other to work and live with greater intensity. Nights out consistently mix dancing and drinks with lesson plan sharing, ideas for more effective classroom management, and a heavy dose of encouragement to ease the tension of working in such a distinctly unfamiliar job environment. It's beautiful.

To those inclined to criticize such blatant social separation from Korean society, I'll admit that I'm ideologically opposed to it as well. I do spend significantly more time at school (40 hours a week) than I spend with friends, and four of the hours spent with friends every week include Korean language lessons at Chonnam University (back to that driving each other to greater heights thing). So... there. I think that when you find yourself surrounded by people who care for each other and insist upon exploring every last inch of the world around them, it's best just to go with it.


Multiple Points of Adoration, for the sake of summary.
In case my previous three points haven't convinced you, here's a partial list of my activities from the past three months: I've traveled to Seoul and Busan, performed with a local English theatre group, attended multiple live music events (hit or miss on that point, really. Music lovers: don't make it your reason for moving here), joined the Gwangju International Center (which features an English library and many other cultural events, including a meditation group and guest lecture series), attended an interpretive dance workshop, camped at the gorgeous Wando beach, went swing dancing, and spent a full day hiking just outside Gwangju.

Currently, I attend Korean language class, yoga class (last night we practiced on a rooftop overlooking the city at sunset), and I'm working behind the scenes for the next theatre project. I also have plans for Japan and Taiwan in the works! :)

-----------

If it sounds like I'm bragging, I am... but my intentions are good! Since arriving, I've heard from a surprising number of people interested in applying for the program. The odds are high that if you're reading this blog, you know someone who might possibly be interested. While applying, I relied heavily on the reassurance of one friend of a friend (we have yet to meet!) who currently works in Seoul, and I'd love to help someone in a similar position.

Please feel welcome to email me with any questions you have!

Thanks for reading, and for allowing me to gush a little on this post.
Bethany ;)

Apply to EPIK! Here's the website: www.epik.go.kr
There are many recruiting companies who offer to make the process easier, but it's largely unnecessary.  Most of my friends went directly through EPIK, and those who worked with additional companies received little additional benefit (if any) from the go-between companies.

The note I promised earlier regarding hagwons: some of them are great, but you need to be careful. If you want to take that route, I recommend privately getting in touch with a current teacher (not someone who is paid to bring you here). I can help you do that if you're interested. There are other viable options, as well. Since I came through EPIK, I can best speak to my experience, but I'm happy to put anyone in touch with friends I've made outside this program.

Google Translate Fails Again!


As a follow-up to the last post...

I received this message recently:
중간고사 성적이 마무리 되었습니다.
일람표(교과목,학급별)및 성적통지표등이 처리되었으니 학생지도에 활요하실수 있습니다.

Google Translate offered this:
Midterm grades have been finalized.
Schedule (courses, per class), and was dealt with sexual guidance on report cards, etc. are hwalyohasilsu.


Also, I misinformed you on the Korean way to express "hahaha". It's like this: ㅋㅋㅋ. Thanks to the anonymous person who brought it to my attention!





Tuesday, May 08, 2012

Cool Messenger

For the first several weeks of school, I believed that all teachers were obsessed with a clunky-looking Korean instant messaging program called "Cool Messenger". Every time the silly "POP!" sound of new messages rang through the teachers' lounge, I flashed back to early high school when my evenings were consumed by lol-ing on AOL. I simultaneously felt left out of the Korean messaging fun and judged them for their fixation.

In reality, the school uses Cool Messenger to share updates and messages between the staff members, and I'm pleased to report that I've since been granted an account of my own. My screen name "Bethany" looks as awkwardly placed among the Korean names as my physical presence, but it's good fun all the same. I've now taken to translating the staff announcements using Google translator, which primarily serves to highlight the inadequacy of automated translation rather than inform me of important school news.

The message I received earlier today:

친목회에서 알려드립니다.
5월 12일 이번주 토요일입니다.
양동 금호예식장에서 12시
주월중의 맛있는 점심을 책임지는
급식실 김덕인선생님 결혼식이
있습니다.
휴일 바쁜 시간이지만
예쁘게 단장한 신부 모습도 보시고 
개인적으로 축하해 주시기 바랍니다.


The Google translation:
Please note that stumble.
May 12 is the next Saturday.
Diversion from Kumho Wedding 12:00
Juwol responsible for a delicious lunch of
Gimdeok of wedding meals room teacher
Can.
Busy holiday time, but
Also saw the bride look beautiful refurbished
Please congratulate personally.


I'm left with so many questions. Why is it necessary to create a diversion from the Kumho wedding? What holiday did I fail to celebrate? And, most importantly, am I expected to congratulate the bride? For now, I'll remain content with simply being included in the messaging. lol ^--^


PS- Fun Fact! The Korean equivalent to the sideways smiley :) is ^--^,  and ㅋㅋㅋ  replaces 'hahaha'. 

Wednesday, May 02, 2012

Burning Mugwort


"What are you writing?"

My face instantly flushes. Twenty minutes into my first acupuncture appointment, I discover the doctor speaks fluent English. "Notes... about things," I respond, flustered. "It's a good habit," he replies. 

So, yes, I'd checked myself into an office with the expectation of being stuck with needles by a doctor with whom I share few common words. I blame my co-teacher, Younga, who first mentioned the popularity and benefits of getting an acupuncture treatment, though she'd never experienced it herself. Frequent gripes over our poor sinuses lead us to the Oriental Medicine Hospital, where we now sit and list our problems. While Younga carries on her consultation in Korean, I take notes in my planner: the office is stunningly nice, it smells like the jimjilbang, and there's a sculpture on the doctor's desk that looks like a mound of earwax. 

The doctor's English skills put me at ease, considering that the first online recommendation I read prior to the appointment stated, "You'll want to know that the practitioner you decide upon is someone whom you can talk to easily. After all, it's the acupuncturist's job to communicate well with you in order to treat you effectively." He confirms, "Your problem is chronic, all your life! This will help", and then leads Younga and me to a room filled with hospital beds and curtains. Younga throws me an anxious glance and we crawl into our respective beds. 

Nurses draw the curtains, and I hear Younga whimper as the doctor begins her treatment. Though she first casually suggested trying acupuncture, I insisted upon it. I also assured her that it wouldn't hurt, since thousands of people have done it for thousands of years. (In fact, I recommend this summary from the University of Maryland, in case you're interested to learn more: http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/acupuncture-000345.htm). Finding myself, once again, second in line to a friend suffering through a Korean health treatment, I breathe deeply and wait. 

Soon enough, the doctor swings back the curtain and swiftly taps twelve or so tiny needles into my face and hands. Minimal discomfort results, so I calmly rest under the warmth of the heat lamp placed over my bed. Through the curtain, Younga asks, "Are you okay? Do you want to do another oriental treatment after this one? It is included in the payment". For only 8,000 won, I can get an acupuncture treatment and an unspecified 'other' oriental treatment?! This place is heaven. I agree. 

After twenty minutes or so, the needles are removed, and we proceed upstairs for our bonus treatment. This time, we're placed in a more cramped two-bed room with a small table displaying a blow torch and two wooden buckets filled with herbs. The nurse explains the procedure to Younga, who relays to me, "These herbs are called 'mugwort'. She will light them on fire, and you will hold the bucket on your stomach while they burn. It is good for many things". Simple enough! We slide up our shirts, lay towels over our stomachs to protect them from ash, and enjoy the pleasant smell and warmth for the next half hour. 

I leave the office feeling calm, light-headed, and ready for an evening at Korean language class. Korean class is, incidentally, going well! I can read the alphabet now, so I'm having frequent flashbacks to kindergarten. Sounding out words is my newest hobby! (<That's what I keep telling myself to prevent discouragement. It's working so far). 

사 랑  (love)
 Bethany


PS- Apologies to anyone who read this blog hoping that "Mugwort" was a Harry Potter reference. You'll have to look elsewhere. 

PPS- Since posting this earlier today, I went back for the second appointment! When I walked in the door, the doctor said, "Where have you been?!". I missed the memo that two treatments a week is expected for four to five weeks. Ah well! I made up for it with acupuncture, burning mugwort, AND A MASSAGE! A real one! It was included in the 8,000 won price, and I will certainly return twice a week for treatments. I'm in a state of bliss!