Friday, July 20, 2012

Dog Days of Summer

Disclaimer: If you're feeling queasy today and/or sympathetic toward animals (specifically: dogs), DON'T READ THIS ONE. I promise you a delightful post in the near future, but today's a bit messy.

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Happy 초복 (chobok), everyone! Today we celebrate the first in a series of excruciatingly humid days by eating all of the dogs we've kept in our backyard for the past year. If backyard dog isn't your thing, you're welcome to sip from a bowl of chicken broth! I won't be doing either one, as the cafeteria staff failed to serve chicken broth and the neighbors next to my school didn't offer any of their dogs to me. The oversight is unfortunate, though I can hope to receive some consideration on the second (July 28th) or third (August 7th) hot day celebrations this summer.

If you're now feeling ill, I have a history lesson to ease your discomfort or at least distract you for the next few minutes.

Question: What did Korea look like 60 years ago?

Hint: Not like this. 
Photo Courtesy of Stewart McKay

60 years ago, Korea ranked among the poorest countries in the world, with the majority of the population surviving at or below subsistence. With the loss of more than 2.5 million civilians and roughly 90% of Seoul leveled in the Korean War, the country struggled to recover and adapt using whatever means necessary to survive. Today, Korea is in the top 20 of the world's largest economies, which they accomplished through sound governing, superhuman willpower, and some substantial financial help. As Irma Adelman, from the University of California, Berkeley, explains it:
  
"Economic recovery was slow; the average growth of per capita GNP was merely 1% per year; and   the economy was kept from collapse only through massive economic assistance by the United States. No observer of Korea's development during the last fifty years can fail to be deeply impressed by its achievements...Korea has become a developed, OECD country, with a poverty population below 10%. From a country which, in the mid-sixties, was wondering whether its per capita income would ever exceed $100 per year, it now has a per capita income of $10000."

The rate of development boggles my mind. It's hard to miss the bizarre juxtaposition of Abercrombie-clad youth walking and texting their way past groups of ajummas, who huddle on the sidewalk sorting vegetables. Even more odd: the vegetable sorting often takes place directly in front of shiny new supermarkets, which regularly crop up overnight. Since moving here, I've become accustomed to seeing entire neighborhoods transform in a matter of weeks, with the abrupt leveling of dilapidated buildings and near-immediate Grand Opening Celebrations only days afterward. Meanwhile, the ajummas sort on, seemingly unphased by the rapid change around them.

My friend, Younga, shared that that many in the elderly community grow and sell vegetables to earn pocket money; and, more importantly, pass the time with a sense of purpose. It's still amusing to imagine my grandparents planted in front of WalMart, contentedly shucking ears of corn and shouting for the attention of shoppers.

EMart's Greatest Competitor? 
Photo Courtesy of Ciara Skelly


All of this does relate to my original topic. Drastic differences in lifestyle exist between generations. The woman shown above likely lived through the war and maintains a life filled with hard work, though she's embraced the modern trends of iridescent purple coats and jet black hair dye. Koreans my age live in a world comparable to what I experienced in the U.S., complete with excellent roadways, advanced technology, and the availability of more sugary, packaged food than any person should consume. Dogs are subject to the generational differences, as well. Wedged uncomfortably between my school and a construction zone for a monstrous apartment complex rests a tiny old house, with a garden and... dog pasture, of sorts.

Once, as I watched the ten or so dogs happily wrestling eachother from the window of my classroom, my co-worker, Seongsu, stated, "You know, they will eat them in the summer". He quickly retracted his statement in response to my mortified expression, but eventually re-confirmed it. Along with many others, the elderly couple who live in the house have always eaten dogs in the summer, though all of my co-teachers are quick to assure me that they've never touched it. It's an old custom. "We must be careful not to judge them," Younga said, "but young people don't do it these days".

It took time for me to balance out my disgust. I'm not a vegetarian, so I do eat animals. Dogs are, in fact, animals. During my EPIK teacher training, I heard that a common greeting after the Korean War translated to something like, "Have you eaten today?". It's not a stretch to imagine the quite recent necessity of their consumption in Korea. And, more than that, the dogs clearly lead a happy life right up to the end. Had I not watched the sobering documentary, "Food, Inc.", about the American meat packing industry, I might have touted the superiority of how livestock are treated at home. Instead, I'm acutely aware that this situation just may be more considerate than the meat that comes from Hormel or Tyson.

Still, I won't be eating dog, along with the rest of my generation in Korea, and I prefer to remain partially oblivious to the exact procedures taken to supply my diet with meat (kidding. This makes me want to take more responsibility). Koreans do differentiate between pets and the dogs that are consumed on Chusok, but I feel ill at ease when strolling past a sophisticated animal hospital and grooming salon on this particular holiday. 


In school, Younga asked me, "You've heard about 'The dog days of summer'? To beat the heat, we eat some kind of stamina food. There is a saying, 'We beat the heat using the hot food.' The older generation eats dog and we eat lots of chicken". If chickens ever wise up and become better pets, we'll have an even greater moral dilemma on our hands. We eat a lot of chicken.


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As always, I welcome your comments, corrections, and suggestions. I know this topic is more loaded than my usual subject matter, so you're very welcome to share your thoughts.

For more information on the state of Korea after the war, check out these references:

http://are.berkeley.edu/~irmaadelman/KOREA.html

http://www.asianinfo.org/asianinfo/korea/economy.htm

http://www.history.com/topics/korean-war

Tuesday, July 03, 2012

Bigeumdo Video

I have some ridiculously talented friends. Another EPIK companion, Corey, just finished a video that blends his island bike trip with the recent heart-shaped beach trip to Bigeumdo.

It's so beautiful that I'm in danger of watching it on repeat and accomplishing nothing this morning.
Enjoy :)

Monday, July 02, 2012

The Food Network? What?!

Pop Quiz: Who designed the posters for the Tony Award winning musical "Avenue Q" and worked as the Art Director for The Food Network for the past five years?

Answer: Gwangju's one and only Rani Cheema! 
Rani and I met during EPIK training in February, and she's loved by everyone here for her boundless energy and enthusiasm. Curious to hear more about her pre-EPIK experiences, I figured that donning a pair of headphones and doing a public radio interview would be the best way to go about it. Follow the link below for five minutes of good fun, Bethany and Rani-style:
http://yourlisten.com/channel/content/16900822/RaniArtInterview

You can also view Rani's work at http://ranicheema.com/.



Rani!

Here, I hold a post-interview pose with the GFN director and head reporter. There was one like this of Rani, too... but it's blurry. whoops :P